Advanced Tuning

Revision as of 00:05, 2 October 2014 by Meambobbo (talk | contribs) (Tuning the G and B Strings)

Revision as of 00:05, 2 October 2014 by Meambobbo (talk | contribs) (Tuning the G and B Strings)

It is simple enough to tune each pair of strings by ear or each string via a tuner if we just want to get in the ballpark. Here I want to cover getting all the strings precisely in tune, which can be more daunting.

Contents

Neck Flex

Floating Bridges

Tuning the G and B Strings

The G and B strings are generally tuned to a M3 interval; however, there is a large degree of variance between an equal temperament M3 and a just intonation M3. The equal temperament M3 is sharp relative to the just M3. Tuning to the just M3 can make chords that use an M3 across the strings sound very harmonious - this is how Eddie van Halen tunes up, at least when the song calls for it.

On the other hand, the equal temperament m3 is flat relative to just m3. If you play mostly chords that use an m3 across these strings, or even equal amount of both m3 and M3's, equal temperament will work better.

Attack Pitch vs. Sustain Pitch

You may notice on a good tuner that tracks the pitch quickly and precisely, the initial attack seems to often have a sharper pitch than the sustained note. So, which one do you tune to? I like to tune to the attack pitch - since I play faster-paced music generally, it is more representative of what pitch I'll be at most of the time. Also, if I do sustain a note, adding vibrato gets it right back to being in-tune.

If you have a light attack and play slower, with longer sustained notes, you may want to tune to the sustain pitch instead. Or you can always just tune to between the two, which should minimize how out-of-tune you are at any moment. The difficulty there is getting each string equally in the same position between the two, so that all the strings are nicely tuned to each other.

Bending and Nut Issues

Sometimes, you'll notice that after you bend, your string's pitch is flat, even though you've thoroughly stretched out the string. The first thing to try is to draw in the nut with a graphite pencil, getting some of the graphite in there to lubricate the nut. What sometimes happens is the string won't easily move through the nut, but when you put the tension of a bend on it, it moves but doesn't return to its previous position. This more often happens if you are initially tuned sharp and try to loosen the string to reach the desired pitch. I find that tuning up to pitch works best.