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→Technique In-Depth
Honestly, this technique is very simple to describe, but it takes years to absolutely master. The part of the palm you use, its location on the strings, and how hard you press the palm against the strings all affect the tone of the mute you will get. Let's start with some don't's:
* '''Don't mute too far away from the bridge.''' The further you place your palm from the bridge, the more it is not simply muting high frequencies but all frequencies.* '''Don't push down on the strings too hard with your palm.''' If you have a floating bridge, you're going to push the strings out-of-tune. Even without it, you don't gain anything you won't get by sliding your palm a little further away from the bridge.* '''Don't try to mute with the middle of your palm.''' How will you pick the strings?!? Use either the part of the palm where it connects to the wrist, or the edge of the palm almost on the side of your hand by the pinky.* '''Don't use a different picking stroke when muting.''' Your normal stroke should work - you are just resting your palm on the strings while making normal picking strokes. You should be able to make down strokes and up strokes without any more or less effort than normal.* '''Don't slam your palm into the strings right before playing palm muted notes.''' You will hear the noise associated with doing so. Your right hand should already be close to the strings - simply move it closer so it touches the strings.
Notice moving your palm further and further away from the point where the strings meet the bridge saddles increases the strength of the mute. Older advice was to keep the palm right on top of the bridge saddles, so that almost all of the low frequency resonance still "got through". Modern players, particularly in djent, are finding that using a mute a bit off the saddles can get a tighter mute, which is important for down-tuned, 7/8-string, or other extended-range guitars.