Difference between revisions of "Kemper KPA Core Tone Tweaking"

Revision as of 11:52, 18 February 2015

Amp Settings

The Amp block features the following parameters:

• Definition - Changes the nature of the distortion from vintage to modern
• Power Sagging - Increases simulated power sagging of the profiled amp
• Pick - Boosts or cuts the transient in the pick attack
• Compressor - Reduces the dynamic range of the profile
• Clarity - Increases the "clean" character of the amp while it remains distorted
• Tube Shape - Make the distortion "softer" or "harder"
• Tube Bias - Allows the signal to push into clipping more easily, increasing dynamic headroom inside distortion
• Direct Mix - Adds the direct (dry) guitar signal into the processed tone

The profiling process defaults all of these to 0, with the exception of Definition which varies depending on the profiled amp and Tube Shape which defaults to 3.3. If something seems "off" about a profile, you may want to see if any of these parameters are radically changed. For some profiles, extreme values here can make an "organic" profile start to seem processed and fake. Try resetting them to default values and see if the tone improves.

Definition gets quite tricky. It's set by the profiling process but can be altered after the fact. Many times a tightening boost in front of a modern high-gain amp will cause this to be set to max (10). It's very similar to a pre-distortion EQ, darkening or brightening the signal to adjust the relative balance of how the fundamentals vs. the overtones are distorted. While it works well for a quick tweak, I find it's no replacement for some finely-tuned parametric EQ in front the amp. If the tone sounds a bit too harsh or thin, try turning this down, then using a Screamer or pre-EQ to add back any needed tightness or high-end saturation.

Power Sagging affects the dynamics and feel of the amp, and can help get mutes to sound right. If the amp feels a bit too stiff and fast, try turning this up.

The Pick setting I find I usually like to leave alone; however, every now and then I'll bump it up or down a bit. The same goes for Clarity. While many love this setting, I find it takes away from the real tone of the amp and makes everything sound like a similar crunchy tone.

Turning up Tube Shape can add a bit more bite or edge to the distortion, like you are pushing the power amp harder. I often like to add a bit here, but it's important not to overdo it. Tube Bias is similar, although I find this one a bit trickier - it seems to add volume as you turn it up, which can lead to an instant impression that higher settings are better. However, too high can make dynamics become artificial-sounding and the tone a bit harsh.

The Compressor in the amp is great, mostly affecting crunch tones. It is neither pre or post distortion, but part of the profiling process itself, making it very transparent yet powerful.

Cab Settings

• High Shift - Moves the high-frequency resonance
• Low Shift - Moves the low-frequency resonance
• Character - Emphasizes or removes the formant peaks that characterize the cab/speaker(s)
• Volume - Used to level different cabinets

I like to use the High and Low Shift settings for mild adjustments if the cab sounds too boomy or fizzy. A little goes a long way, and I'm rarely tweaking past +/- 0.4 - beyond that and things can start to sound a bit weird or artificial. High shift can also help to try to match another cab profile's tone, almost like you are moving the mic or changing its angle.

Character I generally leave alone. A little boost can help accentuate the cab, but too much can make it sound fake. Going negative often sounds quite stiff or flat, and I avoid tweaking in this direction.