Strings - Revision history

Meambobbo: /* How Often */

2015-04-27T23:54:05Z

‎How Often

Meambobbo at 03:22, 13 April 2015

2015-04-13T03:22:08Z

Meambobbo: /* Putting New Strings on */

2015-01-22T20:32:47Z

‎Putting New Strings on

Meambobbo: /* Broken Strings */

2014-09-24T15:06:34Z

‎Broken Strings

Meambobbo: /* Breaking New Strings In */

2014-08-05T03:58:46Z

‎Breaking New Strings In

Meambobbo: /* Slipping */

2014-08-05T03:57:59Z

‎Slipping

Meambobbo: /* Non-locking tuners */

2014-08-05T03:56:35Z

‎Non-locking tuners

Meambobbo: /* How to Remove Strings */

2014-08-05T03:54:18Z

‎How to Remove Strings

Meambobbo: /* How Often */

2014-08-05T03:38:46Z

‎How Often

Meambobbo: /* Materials/Types */

2014-08-05T03:37:43Z

‎Materials/Types

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 ==Changing Strings==
 ===How Often===
-You should be '''changing your strings at least every 2-3 months''', more often if you play them a lot. Generally, it's a good idea to '''change them once a month''', or even more frequent if you are a professional. Many popular artists with dedicated guitar techs will put a new set of strings on after every show! New strings will ''stay in tune'' better, have ''longer sustain'', produce a ''richer and brighter tone'', and be ''easier to play''. If you want to get more life from your strings, '''wash your hands before playing''' and wipe the strings down with some rubbing alcohol every now and then. You don’t want them to get covered in dirt and corrosive materials.
+You should be '''changing your strings at least every 2-3 months''', more often if you play them a lot. Generally, it's a good idea to '''change them once a month''', or even more frequently if you are a professional. Many popular artists with dedicated guitar techs will put a new set of strings on after every show! New strings will ''stay in tune'' better, have ''longer sustain'', produce a ''richer and brighter tone'', and be ''easier to play''. If you want to get more life from your strings, '''wash your hands before playing''' and wipe the strings down with some rubbing alcohol every now and then. You don’t want them to get covered in dirt and corrosive materials.
 ===How to Remove Strings===

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 ==Materials/Types==
 === Materials ===
@@ Line 101: / Line 105: @@
 You may also consider moving to a thicker set of string gauges if you are often breaking your strings.  It may take a little time getting used to the increased tension, especially for bends; but it will decrease the liklihood of broken strings.
 [[Category:Guitar]]

@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 Now for restringing...we are going to repeat the process in reverse.
-===== Attaching one end to the bridge =====
+==== Attaching one end to the bridge ====
 If you have a Floyd Rose style bridge, cut the ball ends off the string, and clamp them into the bridge saddles using an allen wrench - make sure you have them clamped nice and tight.
 If you have another style bridge, thread the non-ball-end part of the string through the appropriate hole in the rear side of the bridge (or the body).  You should see it protrude through the bridge and saddle hole on the front side of the guitar (or body).  Pull it all the way through so the ball end is held firmly inside the bridge.
-===== Locking tuners =====
+==== Locking tuners ====
 If your guitar does not have locking tuners, skip to the next section.  If your guitar has a string tree, thread the string under the string tree.  Thread it through the appropriate tuner peg hole, and grip it on the other side with your left hand.  Pull the string so it is pretty tight.  Make sure the string falls in the correct nut groove and is under any applicable string tree.  Lock/clamp the string in the locking tuner.  Tighten the string to pitch - you shouldn't need to tighten the tuning peg more than 3/4 turn (which is about 12 turns of the tuning knob).  If you need to do more turns, you probably didn't tighten it enough before clamping it - start over.  Skip the next section for non-locking tuners.
-===== Non-locking tuners =====
+==== Non-locking tuners ====
 If your guitar has a string tree, thread the string under the string tree.  Thread it through the appropriate tuner peg hole, and grip it on the other side with your left hand.  Don't pull it totally tight yet.  Put your right hand on top of the 12th fret, as though you are karate chopping the neck in half.  Pull the string with your left hand until the string tightens, pressing against the thumb side of your right hand.  '''You want the string to have a little slack before you start to wind the tuner.'''
@@ Line 46: / Line 46: @@
 If you have a locking nut, don't clamp the strings yet.  Wait until all strings have been replaced and they are all in-tune.
-=====Slipping=====
+====Slipping====
 Sometimes when you get close to being in tune, the string will slip.  This can either occur at the bridge or the tuning peg.  If it slips from a Floyd style bridge, you will have to unwind the tuner a bit to get more length to the string and re-clamp it - make sure you have enough of the string in the block and are tightening the block hard enough.  Also make sure the clamp block itself is not damaged, preventing it from working properly.  For a Stratocaster style bridge, sometimes the ball end catches on part of the bridge before getting all the way to the place it's supposed to be.  Just keep tightening the tuning peg.  If the string slipped at the tuning peg, you basically have to start over - unwind the string until you can repinch it and start winding again.  Some people may say to tie a knot in the string on the peg.  I think it's unnecessary - I've only had the string slip off the peg a handful of times.  If you follow the advice about starting with a karate chop's worth of slack, get a good pinch on the peg, keep tension while tuning up, and make sure each wind rests under than the prior one, it should not slip.

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:06, 24 September 2014
Line 101:		Line 101:

	You may also consider moving to a thicker set of string gauges if you are often breaking your strings. It may take a little time getting used to the increased tension, especially for bends; but it will decrease the liklihood of broken strings.		You may also consider moving to a thicker set of string gauges if you are often breaking your strings. It may take a little time getting used to the increased tension, especially for bends; but it will decrease the liklihood of broken strings.
		+
		+	[[Category:Guitar]]
		+	[[Category:Gear]]
		+	[[Category:Strings]]
		+	[[Category:Tuners]]

@@ Line 50: / Line 50: @@
 === Breaking New Strings In ===
-Once you've put new strings on the guitar, you have to break them in.  This is best done by bending the strings all over the guitar.  I like to bend each string at about 4-5 locations on the fretboard per string, and I bend about 3-4 times per location.  That's 4 locations x 3 bends x 6 string = 72 bends.  A good workout.  After going through the process once, the strings are going to be way out-of-tune - this is why they need to be broken in!  Retune and repeat the bending process one more time, then retune again.  That should suffice.  Now go play - listen to the stellar sound of that new set of strings!
+Once you've put new strings on the guitar, you have to break them in.  This is best done by bending the strings all over the fretboard.  I like to bend each string at about 4-5 locations on the fretboard per string, and I bend about 3-4 times per location.  That's 4 locations x 3 bends x 6 string = 72 bends.  A good workout.  After going through the process once, the strings are going to be way out-of-tune - this is why they need to be broken in!  Retune and repeat the bending process one more time, then retune again.  That should suffice.  Now go play - listen to the stellar sound of that new set of strings!
 ==String Gauge==

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:56, 5 August 2014
Line 43:		Line 43:

	Make sure the string is in the appropriate nut groove and string tree if applicable. Start tightening the string by turning the tuning peg. Again, make sure each wind goes under the previous one. The tension should start forcing your right hand pinky to get closer and closer to the fretboard. Once it is no longer needed to maintain tension, you can let go of the string. Now make sure you have a reference pitch or are using a tuner to prevent over-tightening.		Make sure the string is in the appropriate nut groove and string tree if applicable. Start tightening the string by turning the tuning peg. Again, make sure each wind goes under the previous one. The tension should start forcing your right hand pinky to get closer and closer to the fretboard. Once it is no longer needed to maintain tension, you can let go of the string. Now make sure you have a reference pitch or are using a tuner to prevent over-tightening.
		+
		+	If you have a locking nut, don't clamp the strings yet. Wait until all strings have been replaced and they are all in-tune.

	=====Slipping=====		=====Slipping=====

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 ===How to Remove Strings===
-I like to remove two adjacent old strings at a time.  It doesn't matter if you start with the thick or thin ones.  I loosen the tension using the tuner until they are are completely flappy and loose.  If there are still a fair number of winds around the tuning peg, I use the slack in the string to simply unwind the string around the peg, rather than keep turning the tuning peg.  Once completely unwound, you should be able to pull the string through the tuning peg hole.  If the string is tied onto the tuning peg hole, you will have to untie it or cut it to get it off.  I don't recommend that you tie the strings onto the pegs - it's not necessary to prevent slippage.
+I like to remove two adjacent old strings at a time.  If you have a locking nut, be sure to use an allen wrench to loosen or completely remove the clamps first.  It doesn't matter if you start with the thick or thin ones.  I loosen the tension using the tuner until they are are completely flappy and loose.  If there are still a fair number of winds around the tuning peg, I use the slack in the string to simply unwind the string around the peg, rather than keep turning the tuning peg.  Once completely unwound, you should be able to pull the string through the tuning peg hole (loosen locking tuners to do so, if you have them).  If the string is tied onto the tuning peg hole, you will have to untie it or cut it to get it off.  I don't recommend that you tie the strings onto the pegs - it's not necessary to prevent slippage.
 Once the strings are removed from the tuners, it's time to remove them from the bridge.  If you have a floating Floyd Rose style locking bridge, you will need to use an allen wrench to loosen the string clamps.  Most other electric bridges use the ball end of the string to hold the string firmly in the bridge.  For a Stratocaster type bridge, you simply push the strings near the bridge saddles, pushing the ball ends of the string out the rear cavity of the guitar.  Most such guitars will have a cavity cover with holes for each string, and you should see the ball end protrude through.  Once you can grab the ball end, use it to pull the rest of the string through the bridge and out the guitar.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ==Materials/Types==
 * Electric
-** Nickel/Steel
+** Nickel/Steel - Standard electric strings
 ** Cobalt - Provides higher output due to greater magnetic properties; tone is slightly brighter; feel is more "buttery"
 * Acoustic/Classical
-** Nylon
+** Nylon - smooth surface and darker, hollower tone
 ** Brass
+=== Types ===
 * Round-Wound - Typical wound strings; outer string is cynlindrical
 * Flat-Wound - outer string is flat, giving the entire string a "flatter" feel more similar to an unwound string; however, the edges between windings are sharper and more noticeable